![]() ![]() It's not at all rare or unusual, by the way, to have a single bathroom powered entirely by a dedicated 20A branch circuit as you describe, so don't worry about any silly notions of providing "too much power" to the lights. This requires the circuit to be a 20A circuit, run using 12AWG wire throughout. To be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2). Outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted ![]() Such circuits shallĮxception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, Supply the bathroom(s) receptacle outlet(s). One 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to In addition to the number ofīranch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least An area including a basin with one or more of theįollowing: a toilet, a urinal, a tub, a shower, a bidet, or similarĪs a result, the fact you have a receptacle on this circuit makes it a bathroom branch circuit, which falls under NEC 210.11(C)(3) and the Exception thereto: Your "half-bath" is still a bathroom by the NEC's definition, as it has a toilet and a basin aka sink:īathroom. The diagram in the following section should make these instructions easier to understand.You must use 12AWG with a 20A breaker for this run That is the basic instructions to wire a 3-way switch. A single hot wire will go from the second switch to the light. If you use the top left screw for a regular switch or left outside prong then you must use the same ones on the second switch. The two travel wires must be connected at the same spot on both switches. One from the first switch, one to the second switch, and one to the light. The second switch should also have 3 ground wires spliced and connected together in one wire nut. The ground wire from the power source, one to the first switch and another to the second switch. The ground wire is spliced together and you may have 3 strands in one wire nut. Now that the black wire is connected to the first switch, you need 2 red wires going from the two outside prongs to the 2 outside prongs on the other switch. That is not a concern as long as you have the right wires running and connecting where they should. You can put the light before the switches, between the switches, or after them. ![]() ![]() The first step is to run the white, ground, and hot wires from the power source to the first switch.ĭepending on which 3-way switches you bought you either have 3 prongs on the switch or 4 screws to attach the wires between the switches and the light. While it is simple, it can be a little complicated if you do not know the terminology or why you need 3 hot wires between switches. As long as you know the right wire colors, you will be able to wire these switches and the light together and bring yourself a little convenience. They will usually be spliced together in the wire boxes to create that uninterrupted return circuit to the power source.īut we are getting ahead of ourselves here. The neutral wire connects to the power source and the light. When you are connecting the white wires, they will not be connected to the switches in any way. The red wire should connect to both the light and the other switch. But the red wire is not run from the power source to the first switch. There is a fourth wire in this system, a red one that is also hot and called a travel wire.īoth wires are considered hot but power only travels through one or the other, not both at the same time. The black wire is considered the hot wire but it is also called the travel wire. Yes, there is always a hot wire for this electrical system. ![]()
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